Exploring the Spectacular Gammon Ranges and the vast Lake Frome
In 2000, to escape the crowds during the Sydney Olympic Games, we embarked on a hiking and camping adventure in the magnificent Flinders Ranges.
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Willandra and Kinchega National Park
Willandra National Park, NSW is a pastoral area with a fascinating Homestead complex. A great place to watch and photograph kangaroos, emus and other wildlife. Kinchega National Park is near the town of Menindee, NSW. The park is ideal for camping, hiking and wildlife watching.
We bought a 20-year-old VW camper van; it brought back a lot of nostalgia. It was nice to drive and we loved the sound. For our first adventure, we went on a long trip to Willandra National Park in Outback NSW challenging, but we made it!
We arrived at the Willandra Men’s Quarters (Sheep Shearer) for our first night. It was interesting. There was a large room with a fireplace and six bedrooms. But the most memorable feature was the shower: an open-air corrugated iron hut, a truly Australian experience.
Our next destination was Kinchega National Park, near Menindee. We found a stunning campsite by the Darling River, beneath majestic river red gums. Our only neighbours were a few feral goats. However, the peaceful night took a turn when a light drizzle transformed the clay into a slick surface. To make matters worse, our VW camper van decided to give up the ghost. It was a long walk to Menindee, but a kind mechanic helped us get moving again.
We spent a day in Broken Hill, getting our camper van inspected and stocking up on fresh food for our camping adventure. Imagine our surprise at the border checkpoint—a ban on all fruits and vegetables! With no other option, we drove back a few hundred meters and ate whatever we couldn’t take with us.
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Flinders Ranges
Across 430 kilometres of South Australia, the Flinders Ranges rise, stretching from the heights of Mount Remarkable to the rugged Gammon Ranges. Here, dramatic gorges carve the landscape, while striking rock formations and stunning salt lakes reflect the vastness of the outback. It’s a haven for those seeking solace and inspiration in nature’s grand design.
Wilpena Pound, a natural Amphitheater in the Flinders Ranges, we stayed there for one night. The resort features a camp kitchen, a restaurant, and a general store for essentials. Guests can enjoy guided walks, mountain biking, 4WD adventures, and scenic flights over the breathtaking landscape. Then we travelled further to camp in the wilderness.
Camping under the outback stars was magical, with friendly kangaroos as our only neighbours. However, recent rains restricted our hiking plans, forcing the closure of the 20-kilometer Brachina Gorge trail, which we were disappointed to miss.
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Gammon Ranges
The Gammon Ranges are located in the north of the Flinders Ranges. Not many tourists travel there, it is a great place for people seeking solitude and a true wilderness experience. The Gammon Ranges are of great cultural importance to the Adnyamathanha people, the traditional owners of the land.
After the Flinders Ranges, we drove on a gravel road from Parachilna to the Gammon Ranges. The landscape consisted of saltbushs, flat grass, and scattered animals. Sometimes, a farmhouse could be seen in the distance and no traffic.
We spent a week camping and hiking in the remote Gammon Ranges, completely immersed in the wilderness. With no one else around, our only company was the rock wallabies and kangaroos. Living in the bush was an incredible experience, but it required careful planning—we had to carry all our food, water, and, of course, some wine. With no facilities and no toilets, it was a true off-grid adventure.
We hiked along the banks of the river beneath the giant red river gums, making our way into the purple hills. These ancient rocks, with their varied colours and textures, date back over 800 million years.
The towering red river gums along the river are truly majestic. However, it’s best not to camp beneath them. These magnificent trees are known for shedding limbs without warning, a danger that can be fatal.
While exploring the Gammon Ranges, we hiked through Weetootla Gorge, a stunning landscape famous for its striking red rock formations.
While camping in the Gammon Ranges, we took our old VW camper van on an adventurous drive to Lake Frome. Upon arrival, we met a group of seasoned 4WD enthusiasts who were less than impressed that we had made the journey in a 2WD. However, with the ranger’s approval, we knew we were in the clear—and the drive was well worth it!
The dazzling white salt lake is remarkable—almost 100 kilometres long and 40 miles wide. We had intended to hike around the dunes for a little while, but millions of flies chased us back into the car.
Our memories of the Flinders Ranges are far more vivid than our scanned photos suggest. Without a digital camera, we couldn’t capture the true brilliance of the red and orange rock, a beauty now lost in the scanning process.
And after all that walking, guess what we found? The Sturt’s Desert Pea! South Australia’s floral emblem, right there, in front of us.
With another week left, we’re heading to Mount Remarkable National Park in the Southern Flinders Ranges.
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Mount Remarkable
Mount Remarkable, in the southern Flinders Ranges, lives up to its name, showcasing scenic beauty and a diverse array of flora and fauna. The National Park provides excellent opportunities for camping, hiking, and rock climbing.
The quiet seclusion of Mambray Creek Campground was perfect for our bush camping and the proximity to the amenities was a bonus.
Mt Remarkable is a haven for nature lovers, with its breathtaking scenery and diverse wildlife. Hikers of all abilities will find trails to suit them, from easy walks to strenuous climbs. Our choice for the day was the 4-hour Sugar Gum Lookout Hike, a rewarding trek.
We were charmed by the stunning display of spring flowers, a scene that seemed idyllic. The truth, however, was a surprise: these beautiful blooms belonged to Paterson’s Curse (Salvation Jane), a plant classified as a weed.
During the long way back home from the Flinders Ranges, we enjoyed driving along the Murray River and had two overnight stops.
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