Kimberley WA: Hiking, Canoeing and Cruising Through Australia’s Wild North
Table of contents
- Exploring the Kimberley from Kununurra
- Canoeing the Ord River
- The Bungle Bungles – A Once-in-a-Lifetime Hike
- El Questro Wilderness Park – Gorges, Springs & Stations
- Home Valley Station & the Gibb River Road Experience
- Lake Argyle – The Kimberley’s Inland Sea
Exploring the Kimberley from Kununurra
We chose the town of Kununurra as our base to explore the Kimberley WA. From this vibrant outback town, we flew over rugged ranges into the heart of the striking Bungle Bungles, hiking among the famous beehive-shaped domes.
Back on the ground, we tested our canoeing skills on the mighty Ord River, surrounded by rich wildlife and dramatic scenery. Less than an hour’s drive from town, we also cruised across stunning Lake Argyle. It was a journey that captured everything we love about the Kimberley — remote landscapes, rewarding walks and time spent on the water.
For a few days, we stayed in a cabin at Discovery Parks on the shores of beautiful Lake Kununurra. This freshwater reservoir, formed by the Ord River Diversion Dam, is popular for swimming, fishing and boating. We spent time walking along the lake, enjoying the scenic views and the abundant wildlife.
After a long flight, a good walk was just what we needed. We stretched our legs on a late-afternoon walk through Mirima National Park in Kimberley, WA. The park’s sandstone cliffs glowed with rich colors in the changing light. It provided us with the perfect opportunity to capture some beautiful photos.
Exploring the rugged beauty of kimberley wa has been a once-in-a-lifetime experience, filled with unforgettable moments.
We discovered an incredible place to relax, The Pump House, just a five-minute stroll from our accommodation. This popular waterhole and dining spot boasts a beautiful outdoor setting. We especially loved having a drink there while watching the sunset over the Ord River. A spectacular natural event accompanies the sunset: hundreds of noisy, yet fascinating, fruit bats stream overhead. If the sound doesn’t get your attention, their distinct scent certainly will!
We went to the historic town of Wyndham to see the mud flats. We took a detour down a dirt road to see some springs and billabongs, but sadly, the dry season had left all the waterholes completely dry.
Wyndham, is a small town nestled on the Cambridge Gulf, surrounded by mangrove swamps and mud flats. Once the largest and oldest town in the Kimberley, Wyndham’s population has dwindled to under a thousand, and its six pubs from the gold rush era are now just a memory. We should have done our research before we arrived: punishment, no drinks and meals. The Five Rivers Lookout offers stunning views of the area.
On our drive back from Wyndham, we crossed the mighty Ord River at Ivanhoe Crossing. This iconic spot is popular for photography and fishing, but swimming is strictly not recommended — saltwater crocodiles are known to frequent the area.
Keep River National Park
We from drove to the Keep River National Park. which is 70 kilometres from Kununurra. The park is stunning and looks like a lusher, miniature version of the Bungle Bungles. Well-marked hiking trails lead through striking escarpments, ridges, and gorges. They offer beautiful views and a real sense of the outback. We saw the two campgrounds, nice in the bush with basic facilities. Ideal for an overnight stay under the stars.
The hiking trails in the park were superb, and the beauty of this remote Kimberley landscape was overwhelming. We loved exploring the bush, with its iconic boab trees, vibrant wattles, and colourful grevilleas. Along the way, we were lucky to spot kangaroos and wallabies, a goanna basking in the sun, and even a snake crossing our path.
The experience became even more special when we discovered ancient rock art sites—moments that truly felt like stepping back in time.
During our hike, we reached the serene Cockatoo Lagoon, a perfect spot for a quiet picnic. Swimming is not permitted here, as crocodiles may be present in the water.
Later, we enjoyed a walk downstream from Cockatoo Lagoon, where we spotted some freshwater crocodiles. These small reptiles are harmless compared with the massive saltwater crocodiles we had seen in Kakadu, but it’s still exciting to see them in their natural habitat.
Canoeing the Ord River
Our next adventure was a self-guided canoe trip down the Ord River in the Kimberley, WA, organised by Go Wild Adventures Eco-Canoeing. We were picked up early in the morning from our accommodation in a minibus. During the drive to the river, we studied a detailed map of the route, learning and memorising potential hazards we might encounter along the way.
After a short safety briefing, we were fitted out with canoes and all the necessary gear—and then we were sent off on our own, ready for the journey ahead.
We started our canoe trip near the Argyle Dam outlet. Right from the beginning, the fast-moving water carried us downstream. As a result, we didn’t have to paddle—just steer through the river. Along the way, there were various obstacles and hazards we had to navigate. Fortunately, we remembered what we had learned and took the correct corners on the way down. Although we’ve done canoe tours before, this one was by far the most challenging.
The halfway point was Sandy Beach, where we stopped for lunch and had a short rest. However, there was one dangerous moment on our canoe trip. Suddenly, a tourist boat came around a bend and created a huge wave. We had to react fast and paddle hard to keep the canoe upright and avoid capsizing.
The second leg of our canoe trip was much easier, as the Ord River widened and the rapids gave way to calm, open water. Gliding through the stillness was a joy until a strong headwind kicked in, turning our leisurely paddle into a real workout. Despite the challenge, the sweeping river views made it all worthwhile.
Finally, we made it to Pyramid Rock—the pickup point where the boat was scheduled to meet us. We were greeted by Macca, the wonderful tour manager. It was our time to be collected, and we were relieved.
Five hours on the Ord River left us sun-kissed, pleasantly tired, and utterly happy. The only thing missing? A glass of wine or a cold beer to celebrate. We still can’t decide which adventure topped them all—the challenging canoe trip or the thrilling white-water rafting in New Zealand.
Ord River Cruise Back to Kununurra
Then, Macca gave us a tour of the stunning surroundings. We tried bush tucker, the Green Tree Ants we eat, had a lemon flavour and we had other indigenous foods. After the tasting , he showed us the “romantic tents” were we could say overnight, but we decided that the comfort of a cabin, with hot showers and cozy beds, was the best way to end our day.
It was a long day for us. We are a bit tired but relaxed and enjoying the scenic views along the river on the way home to Kununurra.
We had the feeling that Macca had a long day too but that didn’t stop him from giving it his all. He navigated the boat at full speed along the Ord River, expertly weaving through bends and open stretches, taking us back to Kununurra.
What incredible service! After our long paddle and pickup at Pyramid Rock, Macca navigated the boat right up to the shore—just 20 metres from our cabin.
We couldn’t believe the convenience. Stepping off the boat and strolling straight to our door felt like pure luxury after a big day on the river. Thanks to Macca’s thoughtfulness, the day ended on the perfect note.
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The Bungle Bungles – A Once-in-a-Lifetime Hike
The Bungle Bungle Range in the Kimberley, Western Australia, is famous for its extraordinary orange-and-black sandstone domes, rising up to 300 metres above the surrounding plains. These iconic, beehive-shaped formations were created over 350 million years through relentless weathering and erosion, giving them their striking striped appearance.
Beyond the domes, the landscape reveals deep gorges and narrow chasms carved into the ancient rock, adding to the region’s dramatic beauty. Reaching the Bungle Bungles is an adventure in itself. The nearest town, Kununurra, lies about 300 kilometres away, and the final 50 kilometres are notoriously rough, often taking more than two hours to negotiate by 4WD. We chose the easiest option and flew in from Kununurra, landing on the small airstrip right in the heart of this remarkable wilderness.
Our pilot, Vanessa, flew us with Kingfisher Tours on a scenic flight from Kununurra to the Bungle Bungles. We felt completely safe in her hands, and despite being just 20 years old, she handled the aircraft with remarkable confidence and skill. Along the way, she clearly pointed out and explained the major landmarks as we enjoyed breathtaking aerial views of Lake Argyle, the Argyle Diamond Mine, and the rugged Kimberley gorges stretching out below us.
Dome Walk and Cathedral Gorge
After landing at the Bungle Bungles airstrip, we received a briefing about the hiking tour, were given a well-prepared lunch pack, and then boarded a bus. The drive took us through the iconic beehive-shaped domes, vibrant native vegetation, and striking rock formations on the way to the Piccaninny car park.
From the Piccaninny Creek car park, we wandered through a narrow passage into the stunning Cathedral Gorge in Purnululu National Park, surrounded by towering sandstone domes.The high domes and their striking rocks were glowing in the sunlight.
The Red Rock Amphitheatre at Cathedral Gorge was the perfect spot where we had lunch. The high cliff walls provided welcome shade. A fantastic place to relax and recharge before continuing our tour.
Why the Bungles Are Unlike Anywhere Else in Australia
We were the only passengers on the flight. We feel like millionaires, travel with your own plane and with our private pilot, Vanessa. Her expertise and friendly guidance made us feel completely secure. As we flew, we looked down on a patchwork of colors and textures. A photo with the pilot at the Bungle Bungles Airstrip.
We absolutely loved our time in the Bungle Bungles—their beauty truly took our breath away. This extraordinary landscape left a deep and lasting impression on us. Goodbye, Bungle Bungles. We will miss you and hope to return one day.
We are flying over the Ord River, as we look down we see a patchwork of agricultural fields. The Ord River Irrigation Scheme was built in 1963 to prevent seasonal flooding and drought. To have now water around the year made it possible to grow crops sugarcane, and sandalwood.
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El Questro Wilderness Park – Gorges, Springs & Stations
Emma Gorge
For our next adventure, we stayed for a few days at the amazing El Questro Emma Gorge Resort, Kimberley WA. In terms of comfort, it was glamping with a private bathroom, electricity, and even a fridge. Best of all, there was daily room service!It was just a quick walk to Emma’s restaurant, the pool, and the Emma Gorge trail, which was perfect.
The hike to Emma Gorge, while taking about an hour each way and featuring some rocky stretches, was well worth the effort. We recommend bringing plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat, and sturdy shoes for the journey. The reward? A swim in the magnificent rock pool at the base of the gorge – so don’t forget your swimmers!
The trail starts off fairly flat, but as you progress, it becomes more challenging with increasingly large boulders to navigate. There is a short steep sections to climb, which is sometimes slippery. Despite the effort, we thoroughly enjoyed the walk, thanks to the stunning rock outcrops and crystal-clear pools that rewarded us along the way.
When we arrived at Emma Gorge, the cascade had all but dried up due to the dry season But that couldn’t dampen our swim in the crystal-clear pool. The real treat, however, was when we discovered a small thermal spring tucked away in the gorge. The waters there was a perfect 30 degrees.
We spotted a huge green tree snake on the way back—it stretched two meters long! Knowing they’re not venomous immediately eased our minds.
The restaurant was excellent, but most evenings we chose to eat outside our tent instead. It was so peaceful out there, and even the cane toads came to hang out with us! It was actually quite romantic.
Walks and Zebedee Hot Springs at El Questro
We travelled during the dry season, from May to October, yet there were still pockets of water along the way. Having a four-wheel-drive vehicle proved invaluable, allowing us to reach all the places we wanted to explore.
During on our trip , we went to the Zebedee Hot Springs, Kimberley WA. It is place surrounded by beautiful Pandanus and Livistona palms. The water temperature at the springs ranges between 28 and 32 degrees. Day visitors can visit the springs from 7 a.m. to 12 p.m. daily.
We began the 9.6-kilometre trek along the El Questro Gorge trail with an easy walk through a lush landscape of palms and ferns, where the path gently wound its way toward a small creek. From there, the real challenge began as the trail grew increasingly rugged.
Twice we tried to reach the beautiful swimming hole located roughly halfway up the trail, but each time the swollen creek forced us to turn back.
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Home Valley Station & the Gibb River Road Experience
We drove from El Questro Station to Saddleback Ridge which was quite an adventure. The track was steep and narrow. Even for a 4WD it was challenging, but the reward was well worth the effort. From the ridge, we had a panoramic view of the Chamberlain River.and the vast East Kimberley region, it was breathtaking.
From the El Questro Emma Gorge resort we drove to the Home Valley Station, Kimberley WA, where we stayed for a few days. On the way, we had to cross Pentecost River which is below the majestic Cockburn Range. This crossing can be challenging, during the wet season when the river swells to a width of up to 60 meters.
For a few days we explored the savannah landscape from the Home Valley cattle station. The size of This property, 249,000-hectare, is larger than many countries. At thev station you can book accommodations and tours. In addition, there are many self-guided hiking trails We had a great time there and loved the two massive Boab trees that standing guard at the entrance.
Hiking Trails from Home Valley Station
Hiking through the savannah was unlike anything we had ever experienced before. Above all, it was the silence along all the trails that struck us most. For example, one such hike was the Bindoola Gorge Trail, a 2- to 3-hour return trek. Along the way, we walked through savannah vegetation, over rocks and sandstone slabs, and eventually had a rest at a peaceful waterhole.
The Cockburn Lookout Trail is a wonderful walk, especially at sunrise or late afternoon. This 1.8 km loop begins near the entrance gate of the Home Valley Station resort. Along the trail, we enjoyed the stunning views of the Cockburn Range.
The Mount Baldy Lookout Trail is another excellent hike in the area. We loved the 3.6-kilometre return walk, which starts near the entrance gate of the Home Valley Station. The views of the Cockburn Ranges.
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Lake Argyle – The Kimberley’s Inland Sea
Lake Argyle is one of the largest human-made freshwater lakes in Australia. We drove from Kununurra to Lake Argyle and stayed in a comfortable cabin for a couple of days, enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
We absolutely loved swimming in the infinity pool—it was the perfect way to relax after a day of exploring. From the water, the view over Lake Argyle and the surrounding landscape was simply breathtaking. The vast expanse of the lake stretched out before us, framed by rugged hills and dramatic skies. It felt like we were floating on the edge of the world.
While there, we enjoyed a fantastic four-hour sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. Gliding across the vast, calm waters, we explored serene stretches of the lake and quietly drifted into secluded bays, as the changing light of the late afternoon reflected beautifully on the water and surrounding hills.
Before heading back, we had a refreshing dip in the lake. We finished the cruise with a cheese platter and complimentary drinks. This was the grand finale of a fantastic adventure.
A stunning last sunset at Lake Argyle, and then back to the airport in Kununurra to fly home.
Final note: The beauty and raw wilderness of the landscapes we experienced during our travels through the Kimberley, Western Australia, will stay with us forever.
This was the grand finale of a fantastic adventure.
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