A fantastic place to stay overnight
New Zealand South Island Travel Guide: The Ultimate Road Trip for Independent Travellers
New Zealand’s South Island is one of the world’s great road trip destinations, combining spectacular mountains, glaciers, turquoise lakes, rugged coastlines and unforgettable hiking trails. Our New Zealand South Island Travel Guide follows an independent motorhome journey from Christchurch to Kaikōura, the West Coast, Franz Josef Glacier, Lake Wānaka, Milford Sound, Dunedin and back through the Southern Alps. Along the way we discovered breathtaking scenery, remarkable wildlife, scenic drives and some of New Zealand’s most memorable outdoor adventures. Whether you’re planning a short holiday or a longer NZ South Island road trip, this guide shares our favourite experiences and practical travel tips.
Kaikoura – Fur Seals and Marlborough Sounds
After spending a few days exploring Christchurch, we picked up a comfortable 4-berth motorhome from Pacific Horizon—one of the best motorhomes we hired on any of our travels. From there, our South Island adventure began. Our first stop was Kaikōura, where we visited the spectacular Point Kean New Zealand fur seal colony. Although April is not the best time for humpback whale watching, we were fortunate to see playful dolphins surfing the waves alongside the coast.
After an overnight stay at the Kaikōura caravan park, we continued north into the renowned Marlborough region, famous for its world-class Sauvignon Blanc—a reputation we were happy to put to the test. We then arrived in Picton, the picturesque gateway to the stunning Marlborough Sounds. Strolling along the attractive waterfront, we enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and beautiful views across the harbour.
Picton is also the South Island terminal for the ferries connecting Wellington and the South Island, making it an ideal starting point for exploring the region. From here, visitors can enjoy scenic cruises through the Marlborough Sounds, kayaking in sheltered bays, or touring the nearby wineries of the Marlborough wine region.
We drove a little farther and spent the night in our motorhome at a secluded campsite near Havelock. Surrounded by peaceful bushland and breathtaking scenery, it was the perfect place to unwind after a busy day on the road. We relaxed with a home-cooked dinner, enjoyed a glass of excellent Marlborough wine, and settled in for a restful night’s sleep before setting off on our next day’s hiking adventure.
The next morning, we set off on a three-hour hike through the Marlborough Sounds, rewarded with spectacular views around every bend. It is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful coastal regions, and we soon realised we had not allowed nearly enough time to explore it. We promised ourselves we would return one day, but unfortunately that never happened.
Later, we continued our journey to Nelson and spent the night at a local campground. It was there that we had our first encounter with New Zealand’s infamous sandflies—tiny insects whose painful bites would become an unwelcome companion on many of our outdoor adventures.
Abel Tasman National Park – Kayaking & Coastal Walks
Our next stop was Marahau, the gateway to the spectacular Abel Tasman National Park. This small, laid-back settlement is the perfect base for exploring the park, whether you prefer hiking the famous Abel Tasman Coast Track, hiring a kayak to discover the golden beaches and secluded coves, or taking a scenic water taxi. Water taxis can also drop you at remote beaches or collect you after a long day’s walk, making it easy to experience different sections of the track. Despite its relaxed atmosphere, Marahau offers a good range of accommodation, an information centre, cafés, and small shopping facilities.
Before leaving Nelson, we made one last stop at a local fish smokehouse, where we bought the most delicious smoked warehou we had ever tasted. It was so good that it gave us yet another reason to return to this beautiful part of New Zealand.
Although we didn’t hike the entire Abel Tasman Coast Track—a spectacular 60-kilometre trail that typically takes three to five days to complete—we enjoyed several shorter walks that showcased the park’s golden beaches, granite headlands, and crystal-clear waters.
Abel Tasman National Park also offers excellent kayaking opportunities. Visitors can choose from self-guided or guided day tours, multi-day kayak expeditions, or combine a one-way kayak trip with a scenic return hike, making it easy to explore the coastline at your own pace.
We stayed in Marahau for two days, enjoying several beautiful hikes and a self-guided kayaking adventure. After a warm day on the trails, there was nothing more refreshing than a swim in the clear waters of one of the park’s secluded beaches.
Reefton to Haast: Exploring New Zealand’s Wild West Coast
From Marahau, we headed towards the West Coast. We tried to limit our daily drives in the motorhome to three or four hours, as many of the South Island’s roads are narrow and winding, requiring careful driving. This also gave us plenty of time to stop for hikes, sightseeing, and photography along the way.
Our overnight stop was the historic gold-mining town of Reefton. Surrounded by lush mountain forests, Reefton is known for its well-preserved heritage buildings and relaxed atmosphere. We enjoyed strolling through the charming streets before continuing our journey the following day.
The next day, we continued our journey along the West Coast, stopping first in the fascinating historic mining town of Blackball. Once a coal- and gold-mining settlement, Blackball is regarded as the birthplace of the New Zealand Labour movement. It became famous in 1908 when miners went on strike for three months to win a 30-minute lunch break. They eventually succeeded, making the strike an important milestone in New Zealand’s labour history.
Blackball is also known for its famous hotel. Originally called the Hilton Hotel, it was forced to change its name to the Blackball Hotel after a legal challenge from the international Hilton hotel chain.
For us, with our European heritage, there was another good reason to visit Blackball—the renowned Blackball Salami Company. We couldn’t resist stocking up on a generous supply of its delicious salamis and sausages before continuing our trip.
From Blackball, we drove to Greymouth, the largest town on New Zealand’s West Coast, with a population of around 14,000. Originally the site of the Māori settlement of Mawhera, Greymouth has a rich history shaped first by pounamu (jade) gathering, followed by the gold rush, and later by coal mining and timber production.
We enjoyed a stroll along the attractive waterfront before browsing the local shops. We couldn’t resist buying a beautifully carved piece of New Zealand jade (pounamu) decorated with traditional Māori designs—a special souvenir to remind us of our journey.
After a very long day on the road, we stayed in Pukekura, the smallest settlement on New Zealand’s West Coast. We spent the night at the historic Puke Pub, also known as the SandFly Hotel. The pub served an unusual menu featuring venison, goat, possum, and its famous possum pie. We enjoyed the venison and goat but couldn’t bring ourselves to try the possum, even though Australian possums have become a major pest in New Zealand.
The Puke Pub was probably the smallest pub I have ever visited. We stayed in one of its two simple guest units and had a memorable evening. Sadly, this unique little pub has since closed.
On the drive from Reefton to New Zealand’s spectacular West Coast, we stopped at Tai Poutini National Park to visit the magnificent Franz Josef Glacier. This remarkable 12-kilometre-long maritime glacier flows from the Southern Alps and ends in lush temperate rainforest just 300 metres above sea level—an exceptionally rare phenomenon. At the time of our visit, it was one of the world’s fastest-moving glaciers, advancing several metres each day under favourable conditions.
When we visited the Franz Josef Glacier in 2004, we could walk to its impressive terminal face. The two-hour return hike passed through lush rainforest before crossing the rocky glacier valley, rewarding us with an unforgettable view of the towering blue ice.
Just a few years later, the glacier began retreating rapidly. As the ice shrank, unstable rock walls and frequent rockfalls made the track unsafe, and it was permanently closed. Today, the glacier can only be viewed from much farther away or from the air on a scenic helicopter flight.
Our next overnight stop was Haast, about a three-hour drive south from Pukekura. We arrived in the afternoon and, after visiting the Franz Josef Glacier, took a stroll along Haast Beach. This wild, uncrowded stretch of coastline was perfect for a spot of beachcombing and enjoying the rugged beauty of New Zealand’s West Coast.
Our peaceful walk was short-lived. Within minutes, we were swarmed by hungry sandflies and made a rapid retreat to our motorhome. Unfortunately, around 30 determined little hitchhikers had the same idea and joined us inside. What followed was a frantic half-hour battle to evict our unwanted guests. In the end, we were victorious—but only just!
We stayed at the Haast River Motels & Holiday Park and, as was often the case during our off-season trip around New Zealand, we had the campground almost entirely to ourselves. The quiet atmosphere and beautiful natural surroundings made it an ideal place to unwind after a day of sightseeing.
We love walking and always tried to include short hikes and scenic breaks during our road trips. The West Coast offered plenty of beautiful walking tracks, but there was one constant challenge—we always had to watch out for the aggressive little sandflies. Their painful bites could quickly turn an enjoyable walk into a hasty retreat.
Before driving over Haast Pass to Wānaka, we made a short detour to Jackson Bay Wharf, known as “The End of the Road.” Jackson Bay marks the southernmost point on New Zealand’s West Coast that can be reached by road. We enjoyed strolling along the historic wharf, taking in the spectacular coastal scenery and keeping an eye out for Hector’s dolphins. Unfortunately, they proved to be as elusive as ever, and we had to continue our journey without a sighting.
Haast Pass to Wanaka: A Spectacular Journey Through the Southern Alps
The two- to three-hour drive from New Zealand’s West Coast to Lake Wānaka takes you through some of the South Island’s most spectacular scenery. Along the way, you’ll follow the Haast River, stop at the impressive Gates of Haast Gorge, and cross the scenic Haast Pass, surrounded by lush rainforest, waterfalls, and towering mountains.
After crossing Haast Pass, the lush rainforest gradually gave way to open alpine landscapes. Before reaching Wānaka, we stopped to admire the breathtaking views across Lake Hāwea, one of New Zealand’s most beautiful glacial lakes.
During our off-season trip, most caravan parks were almost empty, giving us plenty of space and a peaceful atmosphere. One thing we had to get used to, however, was that the doors and windows of the amenities blocks were left open in every park we visited, even though the nights in May could be freezing. At the Wānaka campground, we had our pick of the sites and chose one with spectacular views across the lake to the surrounding mountains.
We loved our stay on the shores of Lake Wānaka. The combination of warm sunshine, vibrant autumn colours, and spectacular mountain scenery made it one of the highlights of our trip. A pleasant lakeside walk took us into the heart of Wānaka, where we strolled along Ardmore Street, enjoyed a good coffee, and treated ourselves to a delicious lunch accompanied by a glass of local Central Otago Pinot Noir. Wānaka is a stunning yet relaxed resort town with a welcoming atmosphere that made us wish we could have stayed longer.
From Lake Wānaka, we continued our journey to Te Anau, travelling through some of the South Island’s most spectacular scenery. Our first stop was the Crown Range Summit, at 1,121 metres above sea level, New Zealand’s highest sealed main road. We then explored the historic gold-mining town of Arrowtown before spending some time in the vibrant resort town of Queenstown. That evening, we stayed overnight in Kingston, a small, peaceful settlement at the southern end of beautiful Lake Wakatipu.
The Spectacular Milford Road: New Zealand’s Most Scenic Drive to Milford Sound / Piopiotahi
Milford Sound is one of the South Island’s most famous and beautiful places. It is one of the world’s most beautiful natural wonders. Its breathtaking scenery, towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, and lush rainforest make it so.
Te Anau is the picturesque gateway to Fiordland National Park and the starting point for several of New Zealand’s famous Great Walks. As a popular base for exploring the region, the town offers a wide range of accommodation, restaurants, cafés, and shops. We stocked up on supplies for the next stage of our journey and were delighted to find a local butcher selling excellent venison steaks. That evening, we enjoyed a first-class meal in our motorhome, accompanied by a bottle of fine Central Otago red wine.
The drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is one of New Zealand’s most spectacular scenic journeys. Although the distance is only about 120 kilometres and can be driven in around two to two and a half hours, you’ll want to allow much longer to enjoy the many attractions along the way. The road winds through Fiordland National Park, passing towering mountains, mirror-like lakes, crystal-clear rivers, cascading waterfalls, and ancient beech forests. We stopped countless times to take short walks, admire the ever-changing scenery, and capture photos of this breathtaking wilderness.
The Homer Tunnel is a 1.2-kilometre road tunnel on State Highway 94, cutting through the Darran Mountains in Fiordland National Park. It is the only road access between Te Anau and Milford Sound. During the busy summer season, traffic is controlled by alternating one-way traffic lights, so waits of up to 15 minutes are common.
We didn’t mind the wait at all. We enjoyed the spectacular alpine scenery surrounding the tunnel and watching the cheeky kea, New Zealand’s famous alpine parrot. Their playful curiosity and habit of inspecting parked cars provided plenty of entertainment while we waited for the lights to change.
.Milford Sound is one of the wettest places on Earth, receiving an average of 6,813 mm of rain over about 182 days each year. We were incredibly lucky to experience it on a beautiful, sunny day. During our two-hour cruise, we travelled the full length of the fiord, admired its towering cliffs, cruised close to spectacular cascading waterfalls, and reached the dramatic entrance to the Tasman Sea.
Before leaving Milford Sound for the drive back to Te Anau, we took a short walk along the foreshore through a beautiful beech forest. The track rewarded us with spectacular views of the iconic Mitre Peak reflected in the calm waters. Just remember to keep an eye out for the notorious sandflies!
On our return journey along the Milford Road to Te Anau, we stopped to stretch our legs and explore the Lake Gunn Nature Walk. This easy loop track winds through beautiful red beech forest and offers lovely views across Lake Gunn to the surrounding mountains. It was a relaxing way to end a day filled with spectacular Fiordland scenery.
The wild Catlins, Dunedin & Otago Peninsula
From Te Anau, we continued to the southeastern corner of the South Island to discover the beautiful Catlins, a remote region renowned for its rugged coastline, abundant wildlife, and unspoiled scenery. At Curio Bay, we explored the fascinating Petrified Forest, dating back to the Jurassic period, and were thrilled to spot a hoiho (yellow-eyed penguin), one of the world’s rarest penguin species.
While walking through the grass above the shoreline, we twice stumbled upon New Zealand sea lions, a little too close for comfort.
Nugget Point is one of the most spectacular viewpoints on the Catlins coast, featuring one of New Zealand’s oldest lighthouses near Kākā Point. It was named by Captain James Cook, who thought the wave-eroded offshore rocks resembled scattered gold nuggets. A short walk from the car park leads to the panoramic lookout, which is also an excellent place to spot fur seals, sea lions and seabirds.
We stayed in Portobello before heading to beautiful Dunedin. The drive along Otago Harbour is breathtaking, but it is difficult to navigate in a motorhome. Unfortunately, our holiday was coming to an end, and we didn’t have time to visit the albatross colony
Then, a quick stop at the stunning alpine Lake Tekapo. Unfortunately, we had no sunshine to get a good photo of the turquoise blue lake with the Southern Alps and Mount Cook (Aoraki) in the background.
Our wonderful South Island holiday comes to an end. From here, it was just a 1.5-hour drive to Christchurch Airport. Along the way, we passed Mt. Hutt (2,190 metres), one of New Zealand’s largest ski resorts. Although it was still autumn, the mountain was already blanketed in snow, providing a spectacular final glimpse of New Zealand’s stunning alpine scenery.
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