Explore Arnhem Land’s Rock Art & Cobourg Peninsula with a 5-Day Glamping Safari
I went on a 5-day tour with Venture North from Darwin to the remote of Arnhem Land in August 2025. The trip was perfectly organised from start to finish, showing us the best of the top end of Australia. Our guide Tim was fantastic—driver, cook, and wildlife expert all in one. His deep knowledge of the landscape, culture, and history brought every stop along the way alive.
Each day offered something new. We went on a wetland cruise and hiked a hill to see an ancient rock art gallery. We explored a fascinating history site. Fished our own meal and took photo shots of the abundant wildlife. And throughout it all, one thing never changed—the outstanding food. And throughout it all, one thing never changed—the outstanding food. We were truly spoiled in one of the most remote and beautiful regions of Australia.
Day 1 Darwin to Jabiru
The first, second, and fifth days were long, each lasting between 10 and 12 hours. However, with all the breaks and activities, the time passed quickly and I didn’t feel exhausted.
Day 1: We were picked up at 6:45 in the morning from our accommodation in Darwin. First it was just me and later a nice lady, and off we went towards Kakadu National Park. With the four of us on board, our little travel family was complete. The vehicle was a 7-seater, spacious and comfortable. The maximum number for the tour into Arnhem Land is only six guests. Our first adventure was a stop at the Corroboree Wetlands, where we boarded a small cruise. Unlike the bigger, busier Yellow Water Billabong cruise I’d done before, this one was wonderfully intimate. Just the four of us and the skipper guiding us through the wetlands.
The wetlands was full with life. Fresh- and saltwater crocodiles, water buffalo, brolgas, sea eagles, and other water birds surrounded us. The lotus flowers were in full bloom, and our skipper brought the boat close, giving us an intimate view of the wildlife. He was very informative, explaining the important role the wetlands play in the ecosystem.
Our fantastic guide Tim always found beautiful spots for lunch breaks or short walks to stretch our legs during the long drive to the Cobourg Peninsula.
On the way to our overnight stay in Jabiru, we turned off Kakadu Highway onto a dirt track leading to Maguk – Barramundi Gorge. From there, we followed a one-kilometre trail along Barramundi Creek, winding through lush monsoon forest until we reached the base of the falls. The walk was beautiful, though the last stretch became quite tricky – a mix of rocks, sand, and even sections through water. I had chosen to wear hiking sandals, which turned out to be a mistake; with the sand, it felt like trying to walk on ice. But every step was worth it – the waterfall cascading into its deep plunge pool was simply spectacular.
After a long but wonderful day, we reached Anbinik Kakadu Resort in Jabiru for the night. Our “glamping” accommodation was a spacious, safari-style tent with the comforts of a nearby bathroom. While we settled in, our fantastic guide prepared a delicious dinner in the camp kitchen. Later, we sat beneath a sky bursting with stars, glass of wine in hand, before enjoying a refreshing shower and drifting off to an early sleep. Morning came quickly, with breakfast at 7 a.m. – quite a change from my usual leisurely start at nine.
Day 2: Jabiru to the Cobourg Peninsula in Arnhem Land
After an early breakfast, we set off from Jabiru towards Arnhem Land. The journey took about five to six hours along a dusty dirt road. It was a fantastic ride, on a red road through a green landscape. Along the way, we came across dingoes, wild horses, and even banteng, wild cattle originally from Southeast Asia . Critically endangered in its homeland but thrives in Garig Gunak Barlu National Park in Arnhem Land.
After a short drive, we reached the famous Cahills Crossing. From there we drove over the East Alligator River into Arnhem land. The three platforms were full of visitors watching out for crocodiles.
To enter Arnhem Land, you need a Transit Permit from the Northern Land Council
Next stop was the small town of Gunbalanya, which can be reached by road only in the Dry season (May-Sept):. The rest of the year is only accessible by aeroplane. Visited the small but very nice Art Centre and went on a private Injalak Hill Rock Art Tour
The walk takes around 2.5 to 3 hours and can be quite rocky and challenging in places. For me, no longer the youngest, it was just on the edge of what I could manage.
around 2.5 to 3 hours and can be quite rocky and challenging in places. These ancient rock galleries are anywhere between 8,000 and 10,000 years old. He told us the fascinating stories behind these paintings.
The paintings were beautifully detailed — one showed a barramundi with delicate fins and a clearly outlined backbone. Many other images depicted animals that were vital for hunting, such as kangaroos and long-necked turtles. One cave even served as a sacred burial ground, adding a deep spiritual significance to the site.
Our wonderful guide Tim pampered us. He provided us with a tasteful lunch box which he carried up the hill. From where we panoramic views across the flood plains and to Arnhem Land escarpment.
On our long journey to the Cobourg Peninsula in Arnhem Land, we stopped at several billabongs to stretch our legs and watch for wildlife.
The road stretched endlessly ahead, straight for long sections but turning rougher as we came closer to the Cobourg Peninsula. We drove for hours without seeing a single vehicle, surrounded only by the vast, untouched landscape.
As we finally reached Garig Gunak Barlu National Park in the Cobourg Peninsula. The name translated into “ The land and sea country of the Garig people”. This remote park is ideal for nature lovers. There are no facilities , visitors must be fully self-sufficient.
At last, we were nearing our camp for the next four days on the Cobourg Peninsula in Arnhem Land. A narrow 14-kilometre track wound its way through the wilderness, leading us toward the remote property that would be our home.
Glamping at the Cobourg Pensinsula
On arrival at the Cobourg Coastal Camp, we were welcomed with a glass of champagne and some nibbles, followed by a tour of the camp facilities
The glamping tent was gorgeous. The view into the bush was lovely. A comfortable bed, a little LED light and mosquito repellent.
The water view was beautiful, but the real magic came at night — a sky ablaze with stars, untouched by any light pollution.
The view from the toilet seat alone made the trip to Arnhem Land worthwhile — and the shower had the same million-dollar outlook. Naturally, the smart mosquitoes were just as excited about the place as we were.
Wash your hands — at a beautifully designed vanity with one tiny flaw: the mirror seems made for giants. I’m not exactly short, but shaving still turned into a bit of a guessing game.
We all loved gathering there . The perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks, nibbles, and watching the spectacular sunset.
Another elegant spot to gather and take in the water views — though, sadly, we never got around to using it.
This was the space we used most — serving as our kitchen, dining room, library, and gathering place all in one. This became our favorite hub — sipping drinks and chatting while watching Tim and Holly cooking in the kitchen.
On our drive into Arnhem Land, we passed many bushfires. Aboriginal cultural burning. This traditional practice, uses low-intensity fires to reduce fuel. The drifting smoke painted the sky with spectacular sunsets.
Our glamping stay was also a welcome detox from TV, computers, and mobile phones. With no power, no internet, and no reception, we were completely off the grid. It was the perfect chance to unwind, sip a glass of wine, and lose ourselves under a sky blazing with stars.
Day 3: Trip to Victoria Settlement and a fishing tour
Victoria Settlement lies on the remote Cobourg Peninsula at Port Essington, a place so isolated that it can only be reached by boat or air, with no road access at all.
At 8 o’clock, Travis from Cobourg Fishing Safaris picked us up and took us across. The half-hour ride to the settlement was beautiful. The outpost, established in 1838 and abandoned just 11 years later in 1849. This was yet another failed British attempt to colonise Australia’s northern coast.
The hospital ruins stand as a reminder of the settlement’s difficult past. At its height, around 200 people lived here—marines, convicts, men, women, and children. Harsh conditions took their toll, and 60 lives were lost to malaria, influenza, malnutrition, and accidents.
In recent years, parts of Victoria Settlement’s ruins have been restored. Skilled convicts assigned to the expedition constructed the cottages with the Cornish-style chimneys using handmade bricks and mortar.
The walk around the settlement was gentle and easy, and our excellent guide gave an engaging talk about its history. On the return walk, we were met by Travis, who had spent the time fishing while we explored.
The peninsula stretches over a thousand kilometers of mostly uninhabited coastline. Its pristine white beaches are stunning, but don’t be tempted to swim. The are as loved by crocodiles as they are by humans.
After a relaxing lunch at our glamping site, we embarked on a fishing tour, brimming with excitement. It wasn’t long after casting our lines that we reeled in our first fish—a nice barracuda. As it’s not a great eating fish, we released it back into the water.
Soon after, we hooked a large Spanish mackerel. We were thrilled when we finally got the huge fish on the line, but our excitement turned to disappointment when we reeled it in and found it was only half there—a shark had gotten to it first.
We ended up catching a few more barracuda and two more large mackerel. Our skipper, Travis from Cobourg Fishing Safaris, expertly filleted the fish for us. Later that evening, Tim cooked a flavorful Asian curry, which tasted even better with the fish we had caught ourselves.
On the way back, Tim spoiled us yet again. The service was incredible—nibbles, cheese, pâté, and Norwegian smoked salmon served on a small boat in the middle of nowhere.
What a fantastic day, topped off with a spectacular sunset in a smoky sky.
Day 4: Exploring Smith Point and Crabbing
Smith Point lies within Garig Gunak Barlu National Park on the Cobourg Peninsula. Nearby, the Black Point Cultural Centre offers insights into the area’s rich history and culture. The park provides camping facilities and access for small boats, but visitors must be fully self-sufficient.
Pajinka, at Cape York Peninsula, marks the northernmost tip of mainland Australia, with Smith Point on the Cobourg Peninsula coming close. But outside the Black Point Cultural Centre stands Australia’s most northern phone box. It is free, it works, I tried it. This was our first stop today. Here we learned about the rich history of the area and Aboriginal life. The trading between Aboriginal people and Asian seafarers. The centre also provided fascinating insights into the history of the Victoria Settlement at the Cobourg peninsula.
The beacon at Smith Point serves a similar purpose to modern lighthouses. It was built to help mariners navigate around the dangerous Orontes shoal. The construction began in 1843 and was finished in 1845.
We went down to the strand to look for shells and sometimes tried our luck with a spear for mud crabs. At the rocks, our guide quickly caught a large crab. I spent half an hour searching with my spear but wasn’t successful. In the end, he had two crabs, and I went home with three pretty shells.
The rocks were covered with oysters ready to harvest, while the strand was full of beautiful shells. All around us, thousands of tiny hermit crabs run around , bringing the shore to life.
There aren’t many places where you’ll see a traffic sign like this. It’s no joke—crocodiles really do cross here on their way to the nearby wetlands.
Tim always managed to find the perfect lunch spot—shady, comfortable, and with a lovely view. Close to the wetland and crocodile safe.
Overlooking a large wetland, we spotted two Brolgas. As they detected us, they flew away with their large wings. The wings can span up to 2.4 metres.
Our glamping adventure is coming to an end. Venture North and its crew went into overdrive to pamper us. When we got back from our trip, we enjoyed an incredible sunset with a great selection of nibbles.
Before dinner, we feasted on the mud crabs we had caught ourselves. It was hard work prying open the mud crabs we had caught. The effort was worth it, though, as the meat was absolutely delicious. The meal continued with a Spanish mackerel carpaccio, and I knew instantly that it was the fish I had caught.
After drinks and good conversation, we sat down to the main meal: a delicious lamb roast. Served with cauliflower, potatoes, and plenty of garlic. The flavors were outstanding. I’ll be borrowing Tim’s trick: roasting the whole garlic bulb and squeezing out the soft, flavorful pulp.
Before bed, I finished the last glass of the wine I had brought along—my planning for the five days was spot on, not a drop left. I’ll miss those nights under a sky blazing with stars, and the mornings waking to the quiet beauty of the bush.
After an early 6 a.m. breakfast, we said goodbye to Holly and left the fantastic glamping site that had been our home for the past four days. It was hard to leave such a special place, and I truly hope I can return one day to experience it all over again.
The road to Darwin is no easy journey. After five hours on a rough, dusty track, we finally crossed the Cahill’s Crossing and then rolled into Ubirr.
We explored the famous Rock Art Gallery before enjoying a well-earned lunch break. At the start of our walk, a curious rock-wallaby welcomes us into their ancient, rugged world.
This painting of Mabuyu, the fisherman, carries a powerful warning against stealing. According to the story, when his catch of fish was taken by a greedy man, Mabuyu’s anger was so great that he sealed the cave where the thieves were hiding with a massive rock—trapping them inside forever.
The rock art at Ubirr is believed to date back as far as 40,000 BCE, though precise dating is difficult. Most of the visible paintings are estimated to be around 2,000 years old, as generations of Indigenous people continuously repainted the rock faces, keeping their stories alive through time.
Then we walked up the steep track to the oulook, from where we had panoramic views accross the Kakadu National Park, Arnhem Land and the floodplains.
What a coincidence—just before reaching the town of Jabiru, named after the black-necked stork, we spotted the great bird itself.
Tour Review
The Venture North tour was perfect, and our guide Tim was simply marvellous. He expertly navigated the long, difficult tracks, and I always felt safe in his hands. His knowledge of every part of the journey was outstanding, and on top of that, he proved to be a great cook. I was by far the oldest in the group—at least 15 years older than the others—and Tim was wonderfully caring throughout. I do my best to stay fit, and I truly hope I’ll have the chance to do it all again.