Ferry to Juneau a fantastic cruise through the inland passage

With the ferry through the inside passage from Bellingham to Junea
Our journey from Australia to Alaska was all about taking the scenic route. After a relaxing stopover in Hawaii, we flew from Honolulu to Seattle, travelled by bus to Bellingham, and boarded the Alaska Marine Highway ferry for one of the world’s most breathtaking coastal voyages.
Skipping the massive cruise ships in favour of the ferry allowed us to truly connect with the region. Hugging the coastline on our way to Juneau, we called at small, remote communities that larger ships simply bypass. Travelling through the Inside Passage this way made the experience feel deeply personal, filled with majestic scenery and unforgettable marine wildlife sightings.

Our journey from Australia to Alaska began with a tropical pause in Hawaii. We stayed at a hotel overlooking the lush greenery of Fort DeRussy Park, perfectly situated just a short, pleasant walk from the golden sands of the beach and the lively nearby shopping precinct.
Our days were spent soaking up the island lifestyle—whether exploring the rich culture and vibrant energy of Honolulu or unwinding by the ocean. As night fell, we returned to our balcony to sip evening drinks, feeling the warm ocean breeze and enjoying the balmy atmosphere that makes Hawaiian nights so unforgettable.
Cruising the Inside Passage: The Ferry to Juneau

We booked our passage to Juneau aboard the MV Columbia, a classic Alaska State Ferry capable of carrying 500 passengers and 130 vehicles. Built for long-distance ocean voyages, the vessel boasted a sweeping observation deck with phenomenal coastal views, a cozy cafeteria, a full-service restaurant, and a welcoming saloon bar.
With hours to spare before boarding in Bellingham, we walked into town to visit a wonderful local deli, filling a tote bag with gourmet food, local treats, and wine. Fully self-catered and settled into our new floating home, we were ready to set sail into the heart of the Inside Passage.

Later, we settled into our “luxurious” outside cabin. It had everything we needed for the three-day voyage: two cozy bunk beds, a single chair, and a compact yet functional bathroom. Compact, comfortable, and completely self-contained, it was our perfect little home at sea. Cheers to that!

For the more adventurous traveler, there was even the option to pitch a tent right on the back deck and sleep under the stars. By opting out of the $180 cabin fee and bringing our own food and drinks, we could have easily joined the younger crowd camping out on deck for a truly unique journey. Either way you travel, taking the ferry to Juneau is an unforgettable experience.

There was plenty of entertainment on board to keep us occupied. The ferry featured a cinema showing daily films, as well as an onboard US Forest Service ranger who gave fascinating talks about the wildlife we spotted and the remote coastal hamlets we passed. Not to mention the charming saloon bar, which quickly became a favourite hangout, open every day from 1:00 pm straight through to midnight!

The onboard dining exceeded all our expectations. The casual cafeteria served excellent meals, including the single best halibut fish and chips we have ever tasted. For a special evening, we treated ourselves to the ship’s lovely sit-down restaurant, where the food, wine, and service were outstanding—all at remarkably affordable prices. Best of all, every meal came paired with stunning, ever-changing views of the coastline.

The ferry to Juneau Art Gallery

On our first evening aboard the ferry to Juneau, we settled on deck with a glass of wine and tasty sandwiches from the Bellingham deli. As we glided past Vancouver Island, the sky turned vibrant shades of orange and gold in a stunning Pacific sunset. Feeling the cool sea air with a full glass and front-row seats to paradise, all we could think was: what a wonderful life.

As our voyage continued, the views along the coast were nothing short of spectacular. Unlike open-ocean cruises that stay miles offshore, our ferry to Juneau expertly navigated through the intricate maze of narrow channels, fjords, and passages that define the Inside Passage.
At times, the shoreline felt close enough to reach out and touch. Steep, emerald-green mountains rose dramatically on either side, their peaks capped with snow and dotted with cascading waterfalls. Watching the ship masterfully weave through these tight, glass-like waterways offered a thrilling, front-row view of Southeast Alaska’s raw wilderness.

We were exceptionally lucky with the weather throughout the journey, which meant we could spend virtually every daylight hour out on deck. The landscape was a constant, breathtaking spectacle—dense, emerald-green forests stretching down to the water’s edge, dramatic snow-capped peaks towering above, and glass-like, pristine sea lanes reflecting the vast Alaskan sky.
The wildlife encounters were just as remarkable. From our lookout on the open deck, we regularly spotted humpback whales breaching in the distance, pods of porpoises and dolphins riding the bow waves, and majestic bald eagles soaring high above the tree canopy.

The entire journey on the ferry to Juneau was remarkably relaxing. With spacious decks and comfortable lounges, the ship never felt crowded, giving us complete freedom to wander around, snap endless photos of the passing coastline, and enjoy warm, unhurried conversations with fellow travellers.
Living out of our rucksacks brought a wonderful sense of freedom to the trip. We raided our stash of local delicacies, dining like royalty on smoked elk and bear prosciutto, wild salmon, artisan fresh bread, and excellent bottles of wine. It was slow travel at its finest.

After 38 hours of smooth sailing through the Inside Passage, we made our very first landfall at Ketchikan—famous worldwide as the “Salmon Capital of the World.” With our port time limited, we squeezed in a brisk, pleasant walk around town to soak up its historic, timber-framed charm. While we didn’t have enough time to venture out to Totem Bight State Historical Park to admire its legendary collection of totem poles, getting our first taste of coastal Alaska was a thrill in itself.

Further north, we called at the charming settlement of Petersburg. Founded by Norwegian immigrants, the town proudly maintains its deep Scandinavian heritage, with colorful, wooden waterfront buildings and traditional rosemailing designs. Petersburg remains a working fishing village at heart—during the summer months, its three bustling harbors fill with boats bringing in fresh catches and visitors eager to experience the abundant marine life surrounding the island.
Juneau: Mendenhall Glacier and Black Bears Catching Salmon
Although we spent only a couple of days in Juneau before flying home, it was a memorable end to our Alaska adventure. Arriving by ferry through Alaska’s spectacular Inside Passage was an unforgettable experience, with forested islands, snow-capped mountains, and abundant wildlife along the way. One of the highlights was visiting Mendenhall Glacier, where we watched black bears catching salmon in a nearby creek—a true Alaskan wildlife experience and the perfect finale to our journey.

Finally, after 56 glorious hours on the ferry to Juneau, we pulled into port at 5:00 a.m. We had booked a vehicle through the famously named “Rent-A-Wreck,” and sure enough, our trusty “wreck” was delivered right to the terminal by 6:00 a.m. Despite the humorous name, they turned out to be one of the best and most reliable rental companies we’ve ever used.
With the keys in hand, we headed into town in search of a hot breakfast. Negotiating an unfamiliar town on the right side of the road—while operating on minimal sleep and fresh off a three-day boat trip—was a proper challenge, but we made it into town in one piece, ready to explore Alaska’s capital!

JuneauClick to open side panel for more information, Alaska’s capital city, is dramatically isolated—encircled by rugged peaks, dense wilderness, and the waters of the Inside Passage, with no roads connecting it to the rest of the state. Access is strictly by air or sea. In the early morning, the town carries a peaceful, small-town quiet.
That serenity quickly shifts as the massive cruise ships glide into port. On peak days, the harbor explodes with activity—at one point, we saw seven gigantic ships tied up at the docks, bringing thousands of visitors into the streets all at once!

Beyond shopping, JuneauClick to open side panel for more information offers a treasure trove of outdoor adventures. Visitors can embark on wildlife excursions to spot bald eagles, brown bears, and humpback whales, or journey out to marvel at the mighty Mendenhall Glacier Visitor CenterClick to open side panel for more information. Other highlights include taking a boat cruise through Tracy ArmClick to open side panel for more information—a spectacular 30-mile-long fjord flanked by towering ice walls—or riding the Mount Roberts TramwayClick to open side panel for more information up 1,800 feet for sweeping panoramic views of the city and coast.
We had grand plans to experience every bit of it. However, shortly after arriving, disaster struck when a medical emergency forced an abrupt end to our trip—a detached retina meant we had to drop everything and arrange the fastest possible return to Sydney for urgent treatment.

We checked into a delightful B&B that perfectly captured the local spirit. To our delight and surprise, many of the surrounding waterfront homes didn’t have cars parked in their driveways—they had seaplanes docked right out front! Surrounded by gorgeous coastal scenery and cared for by an exceptionally helpful host, it was a wonderful, uniquely Alaskan place to stay.

Our days in JuneauClick to open side panel for more information turned into a blur of frantic activity, though not the kind we had planned. We had to spend hours canceling our upcoming bookings, coordinating back and forth with our travel insurance provider in Australia, and battling frustratingly spotty connections just to send urgent emails home
Yet, despite the chaos and uncertainty, we managed to carve out a few precious hours to visit the breathtaking Mendenhall Glacier Visitor CenterClick to open side panel for more information—a towering wall of ice that provided a quiet, awe-inspiring sanctuary amidst the stress.

Just as we were preparing to leave, Alaska handed us one final, unforgettable farewell gift: right near the parking area, a wild black bear was wading through the stream, intently trying to catch a salmon. It was the perfect, wild curtain-call to our whirlwind time in Juneau.
Looking for more North America travel adventures? Discover spectacular scenery, unforgettable hiking trails, incredible wildlife, and iconic destinations in our complete North America Travel Guide.